By Nayana

Most Trending Indian Embroideries:
The art and history of a country are always one of those interesting topics that never fail in gaining our attention. So here I bring you guys one of the most enduring artistic traditions of our country ‘The Embroidery’ hailing from different parts of our country. This needlework is not merely ornamentation to our outfits but it threads the stories of that particular community with the natural surroundings, their economic background, and sociopolitical milieu. These days anything that is handmade is a paragon of luxury and this has rekindled and popularized embroideries in dresses, sarees, Kurta Pyjamas, dupattas, etc. Some of the popular designers are seen working with the finest regional artisans and launching their collections dedicated to this very famous art style, embroidery. This fascination is not only seen in the top-notch Indian designers but also many international labels are seeking Indian embroidery and trying to incorporate it into their creations. Here are the most familiar and popular types of Indian embroidery.


Chikankai is the technique of the creation of chikan work. It is a delicate handmade work done artfully on fabrics like muslin, silk, chiffon, organza, etc. Back then it was done with white threads on cool and pastel shades of cotton and muslin cloths. But nowadays chikankari is also done on a variety of colored fabrics to keep up with the fashion trends. In India, Lucknow is the hub for Chikankari embroidery and very famously called Lucknawi Chikan. This embroidery is generally done on thin and breathable fabrics as the chikan needle cannot pass through thick fabrics. Chikankari Kurta, Anarkalis, dresses are some of the most favorites of Indian women.


Gota Patti:
Gota Patti or very famously called gota work is the art form that originated in Rajasthan, India. This embroidery is done using the applique technique where the zari ribbons are cut into small pieces and applied onto the fabric with the edges sewn to create patterns. Primarily this embroidery was done with real gold and silver metals, but now it is replaced with copper coated silver as the authentic way of making was very expensive. Gota Patti gives a rich and heavy look to the outfit keeping it lightweight. Hence they make a huge part of the festival and bridal wear like lehenga cholis, sarees, churidar sets, etc. Generally, patterns created have their own distinguishing names consisting of flowers, leaves, animals like peacock, parrots, and elephants.


Kashida very famously called Kashmiri Kashida in India and is seen drawing its inspiration from the intrinsic beauty of the Kashmir Valley. Birds, blossoms, leaves, creepers, lotus, mangoes and trees are the common themes that bring life to the outfit that they are needled on. This embroidery pattern is created by involving one or two stitches called Kashmiri stitch with crystal threads or Pashima or leather threads. Traditionally it is done on silk, wool or cotton fabrics in white, cream or pastel color palettes.


Phulkari embroidery style is the essence of the rich and colorful state of Punjab. It is done by floss silk threads on coarse handmade cotton fabric consisting mainly of geometric patterns. Hitherto women used to craft these patterns for their own use and for their family members. Traditionally, phulkari outfits made a huge part of a girl’s wedding trousseau and its motifs expressing her emotions. Nowadays colorful Phulkari Dupattas and  Phulkari Salwar Kameez are something which are worn by women during various festivals and also adorned on a daily basis to bring color to their lives.


Kantha is a type of embroidery with its origin from the eastern region of the Indian Subcontinent mainly from the state of West Bengal. Traditionally this embroidery art was done on soft dhotis, sarees, and blankets with simple patterns along the edges. This made a great part of daily income for the women in the rural part of the state. The patterns and motifs were inspired from the daily life of the people of West Bengal consisting of their livelihood, folk scenes, fishery, animals and birds.  Reprocessing the old sarees or clothes into something more like blankets, cushion covers, etc. also added to be the motivation for this embroidery. Therefore economical, practical and also beautiful is what Kantha embroidery talks of.


This embroidery craft, Toda has been in the history of  Tamil Nadu from the past many centuries originating from Nilgiris by the Toda community. It is commonly called ‘Pukhoor’ meaning flower. Normally done on white or off white cloth with a cross stitch patterns in red and black color threads creating geometric and celestial patterns. Done on the reverse side of the cloth these patterns create a great embossing effect on the outfit. In modern days we can see this art style manifesting in sarees, dupattas, table cloth, stoles, skirts, jackets and more. The women of this community weaving this art style consider it to be a great tribute to nature.


Kasuthi is a very famous art style emanating from the territories of the Karnataka state of India. The word Kasuthi is derived from the words ‘Kai’ means hand and ‘suti’ means cotton meaning embroidery done by hands with cotton. Predominantly this embroidery is done on dark colored cloths with motifs inspired from the temples, chariots, animals, birds, flowers and more. In certain outfits like sarees, the overall effect is a woven design rather than the embroidery patterns.